Put it together.

Parts

Part codes carry the size: SHV-RUN-800 is the runner for an 800 wide bay, SHV-SIDE-400 the side channel for a 400 deep run. Your parts list / cut list gives the quantities for your build.

Fixings

Shelving bays

01

Fit the levelling feet

Lay the four posts of the first bay on a soft surface, hole lines facing as shown: the single hole line faces the front / back of the run, the offset hole line faces into the bay.

• Screw an M10 levelling foot into the insert at the bottom of each post, about 10 mm out.
• Keep the front posts and the back posts in pairs: a post pair is one front and one back post.

Done

02

Build the two post frames

Bolt a side channel between each front and back post at every shelf height. The channel's lip faces up and its tabs fold outward, each over the half of the post's facing face on its own side.

• M6 x 35 button head from the outside of the post (front / back face), nyloc nut on the tab inside.
• The bottom channel of a base bay sits at 90 mm from the floor, the top one at the bay height.
• Finger-tight only. You now have a left frame and a right frame.

Done

03

Stand the frames and fit the runners

Stand both frames up and bolt a runner between them at the front and another at the back at each shelf height, lip up and outward. Front and back runner are the same part.

• The runner's ears sit on the posts' inner faces, over the side channel's lip: M6 x 30 button head from the far side of the post, dome nut on the ear, inside the bay.
• Check the bay is square (equal diagonals), then tighten all M6 bolts: channels first, then runners.

Done

04

Drop in the shelves

Lower each 12 mm MFC shelf into its tray from above: it rests on the runner ledges and is framed by the four lips, so no edge shows and nothing is screwed.

• Shelves 900 and wider: first screw the hat stiffener under the shelf centre, feet into the front and back runner stiffeners (4 x self-tappers).
• Wipe the ledges clean before the shelf goes in: grit under a shelf shows as a rock.

Done

05

Add shelf levels

A taller stack is the same bay repeated upward: the posts are already full height, so repeat steps 2 to 4 at each shelf height marked by the next set of holes.

• Work from the bottom up so you can reach inside each cell for the dome nuts.
• Every level can have its own height; the holes in your posts match your build.

Done

06

Add a bay beside another

Neighbouring bays share a post pair: a bay added to either end of a run brings only two new posts (your cut list has one post per corner line). Bolt its side channels and runners to the shared posts exactly as before.

• Each bay has its own side channels. On a shared post the two tabs sit side by side, one each side of the post's centre line, each with its own bolt; runners at the same height share one longer bolt through the post.
• Bays can differ in width and in their shelf heights; the depth is the same along the run.

Done

07

Back panels and levelling

Fit the back panels: plain ones clip to the back posts (4 clips); pegboard, perforated and grid panels go flanges-out and screw into the rivnuts in the back posts. Then level the run on the feet, front to back and along the run.

• Tighten the panel fixings last so it settles flat.
• Turn the feet out, never more than 20 mm, to take up uneven floors.

Done

Workbench, drawers and cupboards

A workbench is a bay like any other: it joins a run beside shelving stacks and shares their posts. Its back posts carry on up as the riser. Drawer units and cupboards stand on a shelf inside a bay, or on either of the bench's shelves under the worktop. The pictures show a 1200 wide bench, 900 to the worktop, 600 deep.

08

Build the bench frame and fit the worktop

Build the bench exactly like a base bay (steps 1 to 4) with three levels: the bottom shelf at 90 mm, the middle shelf and the worktop runners. The back posts are longer: they also carry the riser.

• Lay the 25 mm worktop into the top tray: it rests on the runner ledges and stands 13 mm proud of the lips.
• The worktop always has a hat stiffener under it, whatever the width.
• Seal the edges of a solid beech / oak top with worktop oil before use.

Done

09

Fit the riser shelf

Above the worktop the back posts form the riser. Bolt the back runner between them at the riser height, then the two brackets (a side channel with a gusset) on the posts' front faces.

• Rest the 250 mm deep front rail on the bracket legs, between the bracket lips, and bolt it through the bracket ends.
• Drop in the 250 mm top shelf.
• The gussets stand in front of the back panel line: fit them before the panel.

Done

10

Pegboard, bin rail and light

Fit the riser's back panel as in step 7 (pegboard shown). Then fix the bin rail across the back posts' front faces, 200 mm above the worktop, and hang the bins on its lip.

• Bin rail: 2 x M6 x 16 button heads into the rivnuts in the back posts.
• The LED bar clips under the riser shelf just behind the front rail (2 self-tappers); run its cable down a back post with the clips supplied to the driver.
• Mains connection by a competent person: plug-in driver, no fixed wiring.

Done

11

Drawer units and cupboards

Units arrive assembled. Lift each one onto its shelf between the posts, push it back until it touches the back panel line, and fix it down through the four pre-punched holes in the carcass base.

• Under the bench a unit can stand on the middle shelf (up to the worktop) or on the bottom shelf (up to the middle shelf).
• Remove the top drawer first (step 12) to reach the rear screws; open the doors for a cupboard.
• Check the fronts sit 1 mm behind the post fronts with an even 2 mm gap to each post.

Done

12

Handles, locks and adjustment

Handles (bar, pull rail or recessed cup) and the optional cam locks come fitted to your order. The top drawer runs on full-extension ball-bearing runners; the doors on 95° sprung hinges.

• To take a drawer out: open it fully and lift the black levers on both runners together.
• Door gaps: on each hinge the front screw sets the side gap and the rear screw the depth. Keep 3 mm between a pair of doors.
• Load each drawer evenly: up to 25 kg per drawer.

Done